This Article has
been submitted by Stan Howes and reflects his personal
experiences and findings in August 2006.
At one time it would have been a rare sight to see
people sitting outside a Belfast café on a summer’s
day enjoying a meal or a coffee. Now, possibly through
the growth of foreign travel, a more clement climate
and a new joie de vivre, this continental custom has
become commonplace. Café culture has arrived!
So with this in mind a couple of colleagues and I set
out in our lunch breaks to find the city’s best
cappuccino. It was very much a pleasure, a fun and almost
frivolous project second only to discovering the best
cocktail! However, in compiling our survey we tried
to be fair and open-minded and take in the whole café
experience since we did not believe it was possible
to separate the tasting from the ambience. Inevitably
it is personal, subjective and random and based on a
sample of only ten cafés, so our results are
in no way definitive. Because of the obvious time restraints
our tasting was limited to a small area of the city,
a few tree-shaded streets stretching from the City Hall
to Ormeau Avenue, a haunt of office workers and stray,
map-reading tourists. Despite this it is probably a
representative cross-section.
It also coincided with a period of brilliant sunny
summer weather this year, when temperatures soared dramatically,
which is untypical of the city. A perfect time, in short,
to sit outside a café, watching the people and
chatting in a lazy kind of way while savouring a cracking
cappuccino.
Should you have ever wondered how the beverage came
about the story begins (and it sounds like a tall one!)
when a Capuchin monk, Marco d’Aviano, led the
Christian resistance against the Ottoman Turks in the
17th century. Following the victory of the Christians
the Viennese found supplies of strong coffee which had
been left behind by the Turks. To make it palatable
they diluted it with cream and honey. The white colour
of the drink matched that of Capuchins’ habits
so they named it cappuccino in d’Aviano’s
honour, derived from the Italian word cappuccio for
hood. The first recorded use of the word in English
dates to 1948.
In seeking the best cappuccino, a frothy concoction
of expresso coffee and steamed milk topped with powdered
chocolate or cinnamon, it seemed to us it was important
to set a benchmark, an ideal. Flavour obviously is the
primary factor. A good cappuccino we thought must have
a certain bite and character without being bitter and
be served at the right temperature. We had considered
the appearance of the drink, the aesthetics of it, but
thought that a discussion on froth would be taking the
matter too far and might seem a tad esoteric.
Tepidity and blandness were the main flaws we encountered
as in the case of the Holiday Inn, the price clearly
not indicative of quality. While some cafés provided
a good cappuccino they were sometimes let down by a
lack of atmosphere. The consensus was that this is an
area where some cafés could do more. Music would
be nice and some provided it along with a suitably chic
décor. On the other hand Café Vaudeville
for instance which scored the highest on atmosphere,
was marred by the mediocrity of its cappuccino though
it has to be said we particularly enjoyed the opulent
furnishings and a great music selection. (It was nice
to hear Them again!)
Disappointingly, as can be seen from the table there
was no overall winner but on cappuccino grounds (!)
alone Oscars came out tops, achieving a full 10 marks.
The balance of ingredients and temperature were perfect.
However, when atmosphere and service were also taken
into account it was a tie between Snax, Ruby’s
and Deanes. Essentially they got the formula right for
what makes for a good café experience. It also
convinced us that café culture is not all media
hype and that café owners and staff are taking
serious strides in promoting it. It was also suggestive,
we felt, of deeper changes in society at large and this
was not a bad thing.
Crucially, the experience has left our palates unjaded
and eager for more. So overlooking the survey’s
arbitrary nature we hope it provides a starting point
and a stimulus to others to embark on a tasting adventure
and make their own nominations. The whole city awaits
you. There could be other great cappuccinos out there!
| Ìý |
Price |
Quality |
Atmosphere |
Service
Overall |
Snax
|
1.70 |
8 |
8 |
16 |
Holiday Inn
|
2.70 |
4 |
6 |
10 |
²Ñ´Ç°ù°ù¾±²õ´Ç²Ô’s
|
1.60 |
8 |
6 |
14 |
Rubys
|
1.50 |
8 |
8 |
16 |
Deanes
|
1.90 |
8 |
8 |
16 |
Urban Retreat Coffee Co.
|
1.70 |
8 |
7 |
15 |
Bagel Factory
|
1.80 |
7 |
7 |
14 |
Oscars
|
1.50 |
10 |
5 |
15 |
Celebs
|
1.40 |
7 |
7 |
14 |
| Café Vaudeville |
1.70 |
5 |
10 |
15 |
|